Back on the sand stone..

Since my last post I have managed to get a few days out on the rock inbetween the torrential down pours. A couple of sport days on the Local Limestone ticking some good 7s and working projects and a little bit of trad at Tremadoc getting the head back into placing gear that you dont have to twat with an axe to feel comfortable with. Things are just ticking over nicely really …. But with just over a month to go before I head over to Kalymnos It is time to get specific and start pulling hard….

So what do I do ?

Hours on the fingerboard?, 4x4’s on steep boulder problems?, Stamina sessions at the local massively over hanging climbing wall?

No… I faff about at Helsby …. Like a proper rock athlete ! I dont even own a fingerboard

Well to be fair I have been doing the 4x4’s and managed to squeeze in a session or 2 at the wall but when all your mates are off out to climb actual rock its hard to turn down the offer …unless the offer is Pex hill that is.

Anyway, during a visit to Helsby last year I spotted a great looking hanging arête at the far left of the crag that just screamed to be climbed. Blunt, rounded, gritstone esk arête with steep and powerfull looking moves to get established, Ace, and as far as I know its never been climbed. It looked tough but very do able and with gear in the flake below the roof you would take a long but safe fall if it all went wrong. Sadly on inspection of the coffee table sized flake Neil G announced that it flexed horribly under his somewhat slight body weight and probably shouldn’t be used especially not with Cams. Bugger there goes that Idea

As Neily had only last year had a large lump of rock hit him on the bonce from 15m leaving him with a fractured scull and broken neck you can understand why we gave up on this line.

What Now! Well luckily there were 3 very nice established lines just round the corner

And I even managed to get some steep steep ground covered via the rather pleasant “Clock Work Orange”

Super …it’s what Thursday evenings are all about.

Devils Gorge

A week or so a go the Devils Gorge slipped into conversation...well actually Pantymwyn slipped into conversation, It may as well have been pontypanty for all I knew, but after tales of possibly the best 7b+ in clywdd I was keen to pay it a visit.

The recent warm weather has been great for this venue as it requires a little bit of drying before coming good, however once good (I'm told) its stays good through all bar the most torrential rain.

I met Pete after work, he had arranged to meet a couple of the local lads and get some shots of this Classic I was hearing so much about for his up coming Guide. The route in question is "Grand Canyon" a 20m stamina fest, the climbing varies from dynamic lurches between jugs to sustained technical crimping and pocket pulling with a lactic acid infused crux high up, well that's what it says on Rockfax anyway.

As I watched Lee Proctor work his way slowly and methodically up accompanied by the manufactured shutter clicks of Pete's camera I thought "this looks like a doddle, could be a one session tick".

Lee is a Tad taller than me ! and as I found out later he had done the route a million or six times previously and he had a project extension above the lower offs.

Rockfax were right, I slapped, Dynoed and snatched my way between the bolts resting and figuring out the best way to bridge the gap between the each section of  rock.

I was beat but happy and left with a fair knowledge of what was needed to get me up it.

My Best go ! two bolts short of the top before burn out !!

The following Sunday I met Pete again this time with the intent of going for the red point. Sadly I think my fitness and possibly my head let me down. I made it up past my first crux ok, a dynamic rock over to a pocket followed by a full on cut loose dyno to a bucket. The next big move still held a little moisture and I over gripped a little while making another big move and got a flash pump. I thought I had recovered but then my foot popped on a wet foothold and that was that.. head mashed, "TAKE!"

Things got progressively worse. On my next go I warmed up by doing the first 4 bolts and lowering off, then when I tied in again I fell off after the first bolt and it took me 3 goes to get back on.

Ah well ..it will have to be next time.

The route still stands out and has defiantly sparked something in my shoddy sports mentality. If it was possible to marry a sequence of moves me and the little traverse would be planning our honeymoon by now, As I am smitten.


Meanwhile Pete was playing on what he thought was Bananas & Coffee 7a+ on his flash attempt he was shot down by a nasty looking gaston move. Eventually he work a sequence through and after a play on top head wall he lowered ready if not a little disappointed for the red point.

Jamie (I live over the road local) then appeared and pointed out that Pete was trying a direct version and was actually trying to pull through the crux on a gnarly 7b+ .....ahhh that's why it felt tough Phew!

With the correct line identified Pete went on to make short work of it.

Pete Heading toward the Superb Head wall of Bananas & Coffee 7a+ 

The Gogarth Season comenceth

March..... 17c forecast with Horizon to Horizon sun.

There was only one thing to do....head to the Garth of Go.

How can you not love it

It was great to be back and as I sat somewhat enviously watching the boys shovel bacon butties down their necks in the cafe (being gluten free sucks sometimes) I giggled internally at the mere thought of climbing at this great venue.

There were 5 of us Adam, Neily G, Adrian and Dom. the plan was to head for upper tier and wait for the tied to fall before heading over to Easter island for some real stuff. I teamed up with Dom and at his request we headed toward the Strand. I had done it before many years ago so was a little disappointed at first, well it is always nice to cover new ground isnt it, but I got the feeling that Dom really wanted to give it a whirl and as he hasnt climbed much in the past three years it would make for a good reintroduction to the area.

Dom looking up at the Strand

Looking back I am please he did suggest it. I had forgotten how well this climb flows with its little heal hooks, palming off moves, smears and delicate lay backs, its all there and whats more there is more gear than you can shake a stick at. in fact I got a little carried away with the gear and managed to place almost a full rack in the first half and had to run the top section out a tad.

Last time I did the route I remember looking over from the belay at 2 fledgling peregrines popping in and out of a nest hidden in the opposite wall, I half expected to see them again and even though I am well aware its too early just yet I found myself being a little disappointed by their absence. Instead I watched a pair of herring gulls prepare a nest just below in what I would consider to be a somewhat dangerous realestate area. If only I could speak gull I might have been able to save them some heart ache. Ah well never mind Life is cruel sometimes,
"Ok Dom whenever you like sunshine!"

A happy Dom reaches the belay at the top of Pitch one on the Strand

With Dom beside me at the belay it was time to make a decision, Complete the route in a classic style or Abb off like the other pathetic punters.

Above was a pitch of 4c grass with (from what we could see) little if any protection. "Well this belay has been very nicely reequipped, it would be a shame not to test it" ...Pathetic punter I am

Was it red or yellow I was supposed to pull?
ah well too late now!

We sat in the sun waiting for the other 3 to return, this I find is always a mistake at gogarth. There is something hypnotic about the place on a hot summers day (however far away from summer that might be), instant lethargy engulfs the moment you get back to your bag and take your boots off.

On the walk over to Easter Island I had a rethink about my objective. I had intended to do Sex lobster as its one of the few E3's I haven't done and I thought Dom would be ok seconding it. Reality was that the Strand took a little more out of Dom than I had expected, Well I suppose I was expecting a bit too much as its was only his second day back after a 3 year lay off. We decided on Big Gut as Dom felt it was appropriate.

On the abb down the grass slope I bumped into Pete Harrison and Rocio. They were sat enjoying the sun at the top of Super Crack. Sorry for spoiling your tranquillity guys !

Adrian Adam and Neily G opted for Swastika so on an empty cliff we stacked ourselves on the shared belay of the Big Gut groove.

VS is quite tricky hey! .... I lead up the fist pitch, my mind said romp up the crack one bit of kit, lobbo job done. my mind was wrong and as my hands sweat in the heat I found myself climbing very causiouly to the first belay. I reached the belay and was met with a cry of "are you having a pint after". It was from Pete, him a Rocio were visable if not 100% audible a couple of buttresses to the left. Stupid boy I thought...of course I was going for a pint ..its the only bloody reason I climb. As rigged the ropes Adam called up to say that he was coming with us ... he didn't like the idea of messing up the travers and getting wet it seemed. The air temp may have said June the but sea still said fecking chilly.

Adam like a good boy strung the top two pitches together and before long we found ourselves topping out into the grass bowl below the abb station our mouths as dry as badgers arses in anticipation of the cool beverage approaching.

We waited in the sun for Neily G and Adrian to finish Packed up the kit and headed for the Pub as the sun slipped slowly toward the horizon.



There is no place like home

Another good day at Gogarth - the cliff that never stops giving.



All Roads Lead to Pwllheli

A Wet and Missirable Sunday morning, myself and Simon Frost sat humdrum in the Van outside my house checking the weather and thumbing pages of guidebooks. Where would we find some dry rock.

Simon spoke up and in a moment of genius provided us both with ray of light and eventually a beautiful day.

If in Doubt head west … I have said it once and I will say it again “The SUN !.. it always shines at Gogarth”. this may well be true but the air temp was a tad chilly to say the least and with the added chill of the wind it made life outside a nipple tweaking baltic. Hanging belays with the wind and sea lapping around my never regions was not massively appealing. As we drove past the snow capped hills it was hard not to think that maybe we had made the wrong decision…. Nah they may look white but the turf would be warm as anything.

Onward into the gloom, the forecast said sporadic showers. As we entered the Llyn Peninsular they were spread about every 50 feet. Bah! but we pushed on. 

Nether Simon or myself have spent much time on the Llyn so getting our bearings was quite amusing …it seems that all roads lead to Pwllheli or at least the road signs say they do and those that don’t eventually take you back there anyway.

Eventually we found ourselves on the beach at Poth Ysgo. Boulders of the roughest Gabro I have ever come across lay strooned as far as the eye could see and would you believe it the sun came out.

As we got ready to warm up we were joined by a Semi local Nick. Three mats are always better than one but here I would say that more than ever rings true. The Nature of the Beach means landings could be nasty if you got them wrong so we were chuffed when Nick said he would show us around.

Nick Showing us how its done

There is a nice circuit of problems at Porth Ysgo and over the course of the afternoon we touched, ticked and got spanked by about a 3^rd  of them according to our guide the. As the sun lowered in the early evening sky I realized I was beat, my hands were raw, shoulders stiff and my feet screaming but with the swell braking on the shore and the sun in my face I got a wiff of holiday rock. At one point I was even tempted to take of my wooly hat.

Beat ..Time for the pub

A grand day Bouldering …..never thought I would say that.         

Get Involved People

Sometimes you just dont learn.... "You Stupid Boy"

Just on a year ago I started to experiment with my Diet. Now regardless of my "Friends" happy little Fatty Taunts my weight wasn't the problem.

I had been suffering from lethargy, weakness and down wright bedraggledness. If there was a cold to catch a virus to incubate I was your man. At one point I couldn't walk up the stairs without the need of a lie down afterwards.

Well after some chatting and much google I knocked the gluten intake on the head. Goodbye Pasta, biscuits, cake, Farewell my beloved apple pie, fresh doorstep toast and Weetabix, So long Beer and Above all Gunniess, you will be missed the most my friend. 

At first it was hard ...I mean come on who actually enjoys cider? 

but a year down the line and as fit and lively a year I cant imagine, I haven't had a sniffle a cough in fact I cant even remember a headache and whats more I am hardly missing my Glutenous sins. Don't tell anyone but I have even started to like Pear cider and the odd drop of scrumpy. 

Now during my experiments I found that if I binged on the wheat I would get sick Aprox 2 - 3 weeks after. 

The way it work is: the Gluten hinders my immune system and weakens it over time, So my theory is that one bowl of pasta isn't going to effect it much!, neither is a beer. But do that continually for a week and ..well 

During the BMC meet, although the Glenmore lodge looked after us Dietary Cripples Excellently with there alternatives and some of the best Gluten free snacks I have ever had the pleasure of ramming down my Cake hole, I did indulge in one or four beers every evening Oopsy!....Well it was my duty to be a good host was it not? and a year of being fit and well is time enough to forget the reason why you are fit and well in the first place ... isn't it?

The result of that hospitality: 

on Thursday night (2 1/2 weeks after I started drinking beer again) I picked my daughter up from the child minder with a Stinking headache, by 8pm I was shivering on the couch unable to give my wife anything more than a grunt as response. A warm bath and Sweaty night has left me a little better but now I feel weak, frail and unable to stay warm. Opening a Can of Soup proved challenging this lunch time.

Moral of the story is simple - Don't be such a stupid boy Davey  

My only  positive from this is that the weather is looking crap for the weekend, so if I am going to feel rough for a week it may as well be this week.     

TTFN

The BMC international Meet

 Credit Urban Novak

Last week I was lucky enough to be part of the host team for the BMC international meet. Now I am not usually a “Meet or Club” kind of guy but with the prospect of being surrounded by committed and inspiring people from the four corners of the world I thought what the hell lets give it a shot.

On Friday night I finished work at 10pm. By 10.30pm myself and Simon Frost where on the M58 heading north, at 4am we lay down for a few hours shut eye in the Cairngorm car park.

 A few hours later we sat blurry eyed looking through the windscreen at black rock, The van swaying in the wind “Bollocks”. We took a walk in anyway just to get the legs working. I have to admit; as I was blown around the stripped corrie I wasn’t sure I would enjoy this “Meet” 

That evening we met up with Helen Rennard and Dave Almond who were also doing the meet and Pete Harrison and Ally who were just up for the weekend for a curry. Curry and Scottish Mixed seem to go hand in hand for me.

On the Sunday Myself and Simon headed up toward The Gathering for round two. I had been on this just after New Year with Dave Almond but got put off finishing it by wild wind and the fact that Dave had taken a huge gear ripping fall on to the slab below. The weather gods had been kind and the crag was white and getting whiter by the hour round two was I thought on. Unfortunately we had left  the van too late and some under the table text shenanigans the previous night by Helen had let another team know our plan.

So it was plan B Snow Pimp for us. I started up, got established in the wide crack and tried to place a Hex (cams were a no go), as I did this I managed to throw the only other Hex that would fit the monster crack away. Simon watched as it slid down into the mist below. “Bollocks” Again. In the end I shuffled to the right a little and did a direct version of Conundrum so at least we had ticked something.

After a quick stop at the gear shop we headed to Glenmore to Sign in for the Meet.

It was all a little new and strange to me and there were lots of people milling about not quite sure where they should be or what they should be doing all being very polite and rather un-natural, but the tea was on tap so we sat down and supped.

By 7pm we were fed, it was at this point I knew the week would be a winner, food like that every night …..champion!.     

The way it works:

During the week you get paired up with a Guest that is “roughly” at your ability,  a couple of days later you swap around and in doing so you meet more people and have a good time etc  ….. Or so it said in my briefing pack.

Day 1

My First Partner was Urban Novak a 12tf tall Slovenian Alpine Machine (I am Dwarf who hates walking) Gulp! His hand shake broke ME …not my hand, just ME

As most of the guests (Wads or Not) had not done any Scottish Style mixed before we were asked to introduce them slowly. So my plan was Hoarmaster followed by something a little meatier. At the Belay I met Simon Frost who had a similar plan and had done Hookers Corner. Here we learnt a valuable lesson. The routes share the same top pitch but with options to go left or right. We went left they went right. During this process a huge block fell from about 10m above the belay and ricocheted its way down the line, I cowered under a wall but Simon was clipped before he had time to react. A scary few seconds followed as Simon lay still on belay with no response to my shouts. Still belaying I had to reach up to were he lay, all I could manage was a squeeze of his leg, my first class first Aid training came in handy then. Luckily this was enough and he came slowly back to consciousness. I checked him over he was Dazed, Confused and with some memory loss, his helmet smashed and he complained of pain in his upper arm.

Simon and Matej just before the block came off
Credit Urban Novak  

Options – do we Abb off ? or crack on ? after some time Simon wanted to continue and as the lines shared some ground I climbed right behind him just to make sure he was ok.

That was the end of that days climbing and we got off the hill.

Day 2

Simon understandably  took the following day off and Becky from the BMC asked if I would mind taking his Guest out with me also. Great! Now I have two Slovenian beasts to contend with. But what a day, Matej and Urban it seems were not put off by the incident the day before and we ticked the Vicar VII 8 and Euan Buttress IV 4

Me and Matej on the belay of the Vicar

Urban on pitch 2

 Day 3 (a new partner)

I looked at the Partners board ……Crap he’s German “Markus Griesshammer” he already sounds hard. I knocked on his door and was met by a bloke in a towel, Bruce lee’s harder and much taller brother. Oh come on!! Give me a break. The weather was Crap, a warm spell threatened to ruin the week so today’s plan was a spot of Drytooling at Newtyle. On the Drive Markus told me he hadn’t done much drytooling but he was on sighting 7C “You will be fine sunshine just fine”. And that he was ticking Fast and Furious M10  on his third go, while I got my self Boxed stupid on Torch Lite M11 (originally given M12+…me don’t think so Malc sorry) I didn’t get it this visit but it was good to see the locals Greg and James cranking hard in the dim light of the cave.

Day 4 (cold snap)

The weather improved over night and Markus was keen to move quick and fast over easier ground for a full day out. We jumped an early lift with Greg Boswell to the Cairngorm car park. I had suggested a bit of a circuit starting in with the Genie  in Coire an t’Sneachda then heading over Fingers Ridge before running back to the car in time to meet Greg for the return journey.

Me, James Dunn, Greg Boswell & Magnus
Resiviour Punters.. well me at least! 

As we sat beneath Genie there was a party already on it so we opted for Magic Crack VII 7  instead. The Winter line known as white magic starts up the first 2 pitches of Genie before heading over into Magic Crack. Me being me (somewhat simple) went for the summer line and it was only during a rather strenuous and technical second pitch that felt way too hard for the grade did I consult the guide book…Ah!, I shuffled right and we where back on line.

Trying the summer pitch 2 of Crack Magic

 The rest of the route was great but when we topped out we realized it was hardly the speed accent Markus had been after and the sun was about to set. “Crap! our lift home” Greg had told us he had to be back handy as he was giving a presentation that evening and hadn’t finished it yet. We ran, slipped and skidded back to the ………. “Bollocks he’s gone”

Luckily a few of the people we had barged past on the way down were also at the meet and we managed to catch a ride home with them. Phew !

Day 5 (partner change 2)

Jan Svrcek is Slovakian and upon meeting him I thought "great a chance to practice my Czech".

“ dobre den, ja sem Dave , te Seme ja”...........  nothing !!!

“ er….. jak se mas”  still nothing  …..he just looked down at the little man looking up ….a long way down.. was I not what he expected?

On the walk into the Ben I tried to make small talk “tadi je krasna no” …. Nothing !! just a stare at the little man beneath him.

At the CIC hut a fellow host asked if I wouldn’t mind taking on his guest also. His knee had been playing up and he didn’t feel it would be fair to hold his guest back on such a beautiful day.

So with Magnus onboard at least I had someone to chat with on the slog up to Sioux wall.

As I arrived I found Iain Small and Urban about to start up it…. “bollock bollocks bollocky poo, Urban I thought I meant something to you …how could you do such a thing ”  

How about Darth Vader VII 8  then ?

Magnus in his chirpy way smiled and said “ ok “, Jan just nodded.

I gave Magnus the easy first pitch, Jan would take the second, I would have the crux … or that was the plan. As handed the Jan the gear at the first belay and said “vase hriste“ he just shook his head and said “ne tvuj” .. so he does understand me I thought as I took the rack back off him.

Pitch 2 Darth Vader

I headed up the second pitch and into the belay cave ”mm cosy with three this will be” I said to jan in my best Yoda voice… nothing! Tough crowed. I brought them up. 

After a squirm and a wriggle to get the ropes sorted I led on up and out of the cave. For those that know Darth Vader it’s a bit of a man v’s crack battle of cunning, not my usual sort of route but well worth a venture. As Jan’s face popped over the final chock stone his eyes were wide and what’s more he began to speak to me… I am not sure what he said but it’s a start I thought. Magnus Appeared moments later covered in dirt smiling as usual and his face smeared in blood. “having fun Magnus?” he laughed.

I am in there somewhere honest
credit Urban Novak

Jan Saying hello after pitch 3

The final pitch is a sting in the tail and in my eyes the best bit of ground covered. It heads up a steep corner crack (above me in the photo above) and due to the ice I was forced out onto little hooks on the right wall before heading up the snow slope to the overhanging cornice. I tried to chop through but it was solid so cutting loose and a series of one arm lock off's was the way for me. Exciting with a huge run out.  

Jan once again had wide eyes as he pulled through cornice and once over he patted me on the back and began talking again “dobre dobre”  he enjoyed it then!

Magnus laughed his way through the cornice, summit shots where taken (not by me I dont have a camera) and then we glissaded most of the way down to the CIC hut and shared stories of our travels. That Magnus is a funny bloke.

Magnus and Me at the top

Day 6

Well with Jan now talking to me we discussed the day ahead “gde dnes?”. He had a train to catch so we decided to hit the Norries for a short day. Again the weather was fantastic, clear skies not a breath of wind and dare I say it quite warm given that it was -3c at 900. We quickly ticked No Blue Skies VI 7 (ironically) and Honey Pot IV 6 and got back in time for tea and medals.

When I dropped Jan, Urban and Matej off at the train station I regretted that they had to leave so early. It was after all Party Night beers are best supped with friends.

And that’s were we will leave it for now …

All in all a great week

Big thanks to Becky and Nick from the BMC for organising it, My partners Ubran, Matej, Markus and Jan and also all the other Guests, Hosts and staff at Glenmore lodge.

Hope to see you next time. If I get the invite that is …..             

Good Times